A Study of the Textile Art in Its Relation to the Development of Form and Ornament / Sixth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1884-'85, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1888, (pages 189-252)

The study analyzes textile art by examining how form, construction, and ornament interact to produce surface effects and geometric patterns. It categorizes constructive phenomena into essential (binding and weaving structures) and superconstructive (added reliefs, tassels, color insertion) features, and surveys relief phenomena, reticulated and twined techniques, and color applications. Illustrated examples of baskets, mats, and cloth demonstrate how variations in warp and weft, filament width, and color interlacing yield ribbed, herringbone, zigzag, and other motifs. The author traces the emergence of geometric systems within textile practice and considers how textile ornament principles extend to other decorative arts.